Cape Horn, Argentina

Arrived at Cape Horn, the southern-most tip of South America after another rough passage over the Drake.  Going outside we soon learned the meaning of the Roaring Forties.  The weather did not seem to bother the many albatross though.  We are scheduled to arrive at Ushuia, Argentina tomorrow.

Palmer Archipelago, Antarctica

An overcast grey day at Palmer Archipelago where we had visitors to the Vaandam from the Palmer Research Station.  These folks told us about the research being conducted in the Antarctic as well as the logistics of life there.  We cruised the Le Maire Straight enjoying spectacular vistas.  In the morning it was comfortable enough be outside, but the visibility became poor and there were snow flurries by mid-afternoon.  The folks from Palmer Research Station left the ship at one PM.  We will not soon forget the sight of those two small boats passing a giant iceberg as they entered the bay on their way back to the station.  The white landscape and grey-blue ocean framed the folks aboard, who looked like small red dots.  It is difficult to imagine the life they must lead in such an isolated and inhospitable frozen landscape.

Cuverville Island, Antarctica

Began the day at Cuverville Island where we saw a huge colony of nesting Gentoo Penguins.  Opposite the island are the shores of the Antarctic Peninsula with rugged snow-covered peaks and glaciated valleys.  The sky was overcast most of the day, and it was as if everything was in black and white.  We have been fortunate to see many whales on the trip, the Right Whale, Humpback Whales, Minke Whales, but today we had one of the highlights of the trip, a pod of 12-15 Killer Whales.  As an expedition team member pointed out, we didn't see any penguins in the water at that time (photo is of an Adele Penguin).  We were unable to cruise the Le Maire Chanel today because there were too many icebergs.  The Captain plans to take an alternate route to Palmer Archipelago and Palmer Station, our destination for tomorrow.

Admiralty Bay, Antarctica

Awoke this morning to calm waters and sunshine after a rough passage over the Drake yesterday. Looked out the window and saw our first iceberg. We were outside early to see the beautiful landscape of Antarctica at Admiralty Bay.  Saw several research stations on the coast, and also two large penguin colonies one Adele and the other Chinstrap penguins.  Lots of ice floes, some with penguins or seals on them.  After several hours in Admiralty Bay, we headed for Hope Bay.  There were many huge tabular icebergs blocking the bay, so no hope of viewing Hope Bay, and traveling to our next destination.

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands

Took the tender from the ship to the dock and caught the early tour to Bluff Cove Penguin Rookery.  Our driver, a 5th generation Falklander, gave us a good idea of what life was like on this barren windswept island.   We saw King Penguins, Gentoo Penguins, Upland Goose, Brown Skua, Dolphin Gull and Black-throated Finch.   We visited the Museum in Stanley and a walked along the shore.  Saw the flightless Steamer Ducks and Antarctic Tern as well as several cormorants, or shags.  Had lunch at a local hotel and took the tender back to the ship.  Had time to do a watercolor sketch of the islands before departure.  It was a beautiful sunny day, but we were told they had several inches of snow earlier in the week.

Puerto Madryn, Argentina

Today we visited Valdez Peninsula Nature Preserve where we saw sea lions, elephant seals, imperial cormorants, and giant petrels.  On the return trip we saw wild guanacos and rheas.  It was worth the  long drive from Puerta  Madryn.  We also saw osprey and turkey vultures, birds also found in North America.

Montevideo,Uruguay

 In Montevideo we took a tour of the city, saw the Legislative Palace, Prado Park, and Independence Plaza.  Visited the Carnival Museum where we watched a demonstration of Candombe drumming and dancing.  Back to the ship in time to do a quick watercolor sketch of the city of Montevideo . The above photo is of a ship boneyard in the harbor. Tomorrow is a day at sea.